Fast Fashion

Hubert De Givenchy recently stated that, “fashion should evolve slowly, without any revolution…”. As much as I absolutely agree with him, the Fast Fashion of today has done wonders for our economy.

The fast fashion business model can make your clothes feel outdated very quickly. Retailers such as Zara, have deliveries to store twice a week, H&M and Forever 21 receive new styles daily and Topshop online reveal 400 new styles weekly. There’s no wonder as to why consumer’s feel their clothes become out  of trend so soon after buying them. Having said this, the fast fashion business model is effectively creating and providing more jobs for designers, and retail jobs not only on the shop floor but to head office too, thus reducing unemployment. Simultaneously according to the Office of National Statistics, the Consumer Price Index has grown by 1.2% in the year to September 2014.

This model essentially manipulates the consumer into spending more money. The general consensus of the consumer is that they are able to buy more clothes with their money. What they are not realising is that they are getting what they pay for. More often than not, these garments are of poor quality – witnessing buttons falling off and beading & sequins a sign of child labour. If that’s not enough, over 1100 workers were killed with thousands more injured when 3 factories collapsed in Bangladesh. These factories were host to the likes of Primark, Mango, Matalan and Wal-Mart. This collapse occurred after a fire in a factory in a neighbouring district a few months before. Sam Maher of Labour Behind the Label stated that, “Tragedy after tragedy shows that corporate controlled monitoring is completely inadequate”. This begs the question, is it better to spend the same amount of money on fewer statement pieces that are of better quality, rather than a vast number of garments that are likely to fall apart after one wash?

Garments are less likely to feel dated quickly if the consumer is buying statement pieces for their wardrobe. This also enables the consumer to get creative, to mix and match accessories with their statement pieces, switch up their make up to even changing shoes and bags worn with the clothes to make it look like a different outfit each time.

I appreciate that fast fashion works for a lot of people for various reasons. I feel that Selfridges has recognised this. They do not only cater to the upper market with haute couture and high-end designers, they also have H&M and Primark concessions. Thereby not alienating any consumers, a principle they have stuck with since Harry Gordon Selfridge opened the store in 1909. In effect, this drives sales and further fuels our economy.

Racism on the Runway

Naomi Campbell has previously been portrayed by the media as rather notorious due to her underlying anger issues; what has come to light is the humanitarian effect  that perhaps the Late Nelson Mandela had on her. He regarded her as his ‘honorary granddaughter’. In 2013 she, along with Chanel Iman and Bethann Hardison set up a coalition in order to eliminate what’s deemed as racism on the runway, whatever the intention may be; to bring back diversity. I specifically cited ‘bring back’ as Naomi Campbell expressed to CNN that when she initially began her modelling career back in 1986, “there was Asians, blacks, whites, Indians, Chinese. It was very diverse”.

It is really rather heart-breaking to have witnessed such regression in what should be an industry that unites all ethnicities. Especially with designers such as Prabal Gurung and Miu Miu to name a couple, as well as other industry professionals from the globe over. I feel the three of these ladies as ambassadors for the coalition, are extremely influential in conveying their message of ‘Time for Change’. My reasoning for this is not only because of their authority due to celebrity status; but insofar as the fact they’ve witnessed reversion to this 1950’s mentality first-hand. An example of this is when The Sunday Times articulated what Chanel Iman had said in an interview that, “A few times I got excused by designers who told me, ‘We already found a black girl. We don’t need you anymore’”. Naturally she felt extremely disheartened by this, and many would regard it as a racist comment.

Some have argued it not being the designers or casting agents who are racist and at fault per se, but purely the system. Though historically racism would stem systematically, it is quite absurd for designers and companies alike to entirely blame the system when it’s pretty evident they, themselves are fully aware of the decisions they make not to hire models of colour. Again although their intention may not be racist, the outcome very much is offensive. It is refreshing to see not only the likes of Tom Ford and Diane Von Furstenberg taking the issue of diversity seriously; with Tom Ford casting his own models and working closely with the likes of Jay Z (my heart skipped a beat whilst typing his name <3); but also young independent designers such as TRIKKI and NIKITA KARIZMA both based in London. They both use models from various ethnicities in their promotional campaigns. This is encouraging as they are sending the right message to today’s youth.

Neelam Johal for Burberry

The Turban and Vuitton

Seeing as though we are coming to the end of Fashion Week 2014, I thought to do some research to see if there was an improvement in diversity on the catwalk. I found that 985 out of 4,621 looks in the 148 Fall/Winter 2014 shows were unveiled by models of colour, making 78.6% of the models white. Not a huge contrast from the Spring/Summer 2014 shows where 79.98% of the models were white. This has been around the 80% mark for the past 6 seasons. Having said this, it is encouraging to see a wide range of people get involved in the movement both direct and indirectly to aid in shaping this change. Not only does Tom Ford have a strong influence; Louis Vuitton’s new creative director Nicolas Ghesquière debuted a first ever campaign with a Sikh man Jatinder Singh Duhailay wearing a turban and Burberry has enabled Neelam Johal to become their first ever Indian campaign star, she is most definitely one to watch!

Name(required)

Email(required)

Website

Comment(required)

Submit

Δ

Timeless Style

Yves Saint Laurent once famously said, ‘fashions fade; style is eternal’. Although we witness fashions change as seasons do, many things remain timeless when it comes to ‘style’; trends which never cease to become outdated and always look good.

We have had a number women in generations gone by who epitomise what seems to be this effortless and enduring style. Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and now Kate Middleton are all renowned for this. What defines their style is not only the fact that their style can still be bought in shops today; but insofar as girls and ladies in today’s day and age continue to admire them for symbolising such eloquence with their style.

From a shining onscreen star to Princess, one of the many things Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco is celebrated for is her impeccable style. It was evident from the way in which Kate Middleton’s wedding gown was designed, that she (just like the rest of us) looks to her for inspiration. Grace Kelly is most famous for the way in which she wore pearls.  When I think of Grace Kelly, I envisage the string of large, timeless, statement pearls she’d wear so aesthetically around her neck; simple yet stylish. Such an accessory has become more available in the form of imitation pearls to those who may perhaps find a string of pure pearls rather dear. Granted, such jewellery lacks quality, but the demure of Princess Grace’s style is achievable in this way.

Philanthropist and Oscar winning Audrey Hepburn became Hubert de Givenchy’s muse. He went on to design one of the most famous dresses of all time; it was a simple LBD for the opening scene of the famous 1961 Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This was accessorised with pearls, a big pair of sunglasses, a tiara along with her black winged eyeliner. Bar the tiara (depending on the occasion of course), the style of this look is effortless and has been worn by women all over the world for decades since. Whilst the original dress was a Givenchy, not only has the style of the dress become more accessible; the entire look and style has been adapted with the dress worn shorter with similar accessories and an updo due to the high neck of the dress. An adaptation of the dress may be worn with a lower neckline, hair down and both bottom and top winged eyeliner for a more dramatic effect.

Though she lived a short life, Marilyn Monroe captured hearts of many all over the world, and continues to be one of the most loved Hollywood icons of all time. Marilyn has always been well known for her voluptuous figure. This is perhaps most important with today’s society; depicting the ‘perfect’ woman to be what’s seen as unrealistic airbrushed models seen on billboards, TV and magazines everywhere. One of her most famous roles was in the Seven Year Itch where she was seen in the white halter dress, which remains a statement piece till today. Females across the globe wear the figure flattering dress from holidays to special occasions such as weddings. She made famous strapless and especially sweetheart neckline dresses; showing off her curvaceous figure and unquestionably finishing this off with white fur. What stands out to me, is her flawless make up. There were no false eyelashes back then; her eyes with the perfect amount of mascara and eyeliner, red nails to match and for me, her statement piece were her crimson lips giving her that sultry pout.

What seems evident with all these icons is whichever era they are from, their style and flair is and has been transferrable for generations since; with the likes of the Duchess of Cambridge as an illustration of this. This goes to show that you may not need mountains of clothes in your wardrobe with every new collection that comes out. a few essential statement pieces, with the perfect make-up combination and accessories should make you feel as though the street is your catwalk!